The Caramel Treatment - A Natural Hair Softener

The caramel treatment is a product in the E'tae product line. Boasting an all natural line up of ingredients from honey, bananas to olive oil, this product delivers in its ability to seriously soften and hydrate the driest and roughest hair textures. It helps people who relax their hair to 'stretch' their relaxer for longer periods and helps people with natural hair by softening its texture for easier detangling and manageability.

The results of the caramel treatment are not permanent; they last for up to 4 weeks so should be reapplied monthly for continued benefits. Many report 'loosening' of hair texture as well as less shrinkage after the treatment but this is likely due to the added weight of the product as well as the increased moisture levels in the hair. For this reason, the caramel treatment is excellent for helping to straightening the natural hair as it takes less heat to get smoother results as well as better moisture retention.

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No doubt the product is excellent but due to its perishable nature (no preservatives are used), the price tag for monthly treatments can become quite unappealing. Most of the ingredients in the product can be found in many average kitchens so making your own caramel treatment seems a more attractive approach for those who wish to use it on a regular basis.

By understanding the purpose of each ingredient, you can adjust the recipe every time you make it depending on your hair's needs.

Honey - An excellent humectant good for moisture
Olive Oil - For lubrication and helps with moisture retention
Bananas - Good for moisture and some protein benefits as well
Molasses (Treacle) - Another excellent humectant with some protein benefits
Water - This is the best natural moisturizer and is used to thin the mixture
Apple Cider Vinegar - For the shine it imparts to the hair
Cornstarch - For thickening purposes
Wheat germ oil - For added strength and lubrication

Here outlined is a simple recipe based on the ingredients above:

Honey - 6 tablespoons
Olive Oil - 6 tablespoons
Bananas - 2-3 overripe and very soft
Molasses (Treacle) - 3 tablespoons
Water - 4-6 tablespoons
Apple Cider Vinegar - 1 tablespoon
Cornstarch - 1-2 tablespoons depending on how thick you want the mixture to be
Wheat germ oil - 1 teaspoon - This can be substituted for any other natural oil of your choice

o Place all the ingredients except for the water into a blender and process until smooth. You may need to add the water bit by bit if it looks too dry.
o To ensure that there are no bits of banana in the mixture, sieve it through a fine sieve.
o Pour the mixture into a saucepan and put it on a medium heat while stirring constantly. You don't want to 'cook' the mixture but you want the cornstarch to cause it to thicken and this will take just moments. You may need to add more water to thin it down if it gets too thick or add a bit more cornstarch if it is still too runny. You want to end up with a caramel coloured mixture that is the consistency of a thick batter. If the mixture is too thin it will start dripping from your hair as soon as you apply it.
o Decant the mixture into a container, depending on the length of your hair it will likely be enough for two applications.

To apply, divide the hair into 3-4 sections and clip. Starting with 1 section, part the hair and apply on the roots generously rubbing in with your fingers. Once applied on the roots of the section, apply the mixture all the way to the ends. Complete all sections in this manner and once done, cover the hair with a plastic cap. Let the mixture sit in your hair for 1-2 hours or overnight for really dry hair.

Wash hair with a sulfate free shampoo, deep condition and style as usual. You can freeze the remainder until you are ready to use it. The treatment is suitable for both natural and relaxed hair.

For more black hair care articles please visit http://www.BlackHairInformation.com

The Caramel Treatment - A Natural Hair Softener

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Is Your Hot Water Heater Leaking?

Is your hot water heater leaking? You can probably fix it pretty easily. There are a few things to check out because whenever there is a leak in a water heater, it is almost always caused by one of the following four problems.

1) It's not a leak. Many people make the mistake of assuming that water collecting on the ground around the water heater is from a leak. Many times, it's not a leak at all. Often, it's just condensation building up around it as the tank holds hot water.

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2) Drain valve. Many times, fixing a leak is as simple as tightening the drain valve. If you suspect that your drain valve is the culprit, screw it in very tight, using a wrench. Making it hand tight is usually good enough but sometimes it just needs a little extra tightening.

3) The tank. There is a limited lifespan to the tank. Depending on how expensive the unit was when bought, the unit you have in your home may not have the best corrosion resistance. The tank holds water all the time so it is susceptible to rust and corrosion. If the tank is no good, get a new water heater. It will be less expensive than replacing the tank.

4) The pipes. If the leak is coming from the pipes, find the fitting that the water is escaping from and tighten it. Make sure not to over tighten. If this doesn't stop the leak, you need to buy a new fitting. Don't worry, installing it is very simple.

If the leak is being caused by something other than the aforementioned issues, it may be time for a new unit.

Is Your Hot Water Heater Leaking?

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Shower Curtain Cleaning Tips

Nobody wants to be taking a shower or a bath, cleaning themselves up, only to look up and see a dirty, scummy shower curtain. Unfortunately, your shower curtain is going to get dirty. Being in such damp conditions and with such soap scum build up - well, you're going to have a dirty shower curtain on your hands. Luckily, there are some things that you can do to clean up your shower curtain.

You can wash your shower curtain in your basic everyday clothes washer. Just use about 1 cup of vinegar and 1 cup of bleach. Then add white towels and a regular amount of your normal laundry detergent and run the machine. Also use some liquid fabric softener. Do not run your machine on hot - plastic shower curtains could melt.

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When you're done washing your shower curtain, do not place it in the dryer (again, it could melt). Instead, simply hang it up in its regular place on the shower rod and let it drip dry.

No matter what your shower curtain is made out of, fabric, vinyl, or plastic, you can stick it in the washing machine with a cup of baking soda instead of bleach and vinegar. It is also a good idea to read the label on your shower curtain to check for any warnings or suggestions.

If you soak your shower curtain in salt water, it will prevent mildew (although, it could leave small crystals on your curtain if you use too much salt). Before hanging shower curtains, soak in vinegar or salt water solutions to prevent mold and mildew. To remove mold and mildew, wash in hot soapy water with a little bit of bleach. For plastic curtains, clean with laundry pre-wash spray. Spray along the top, letting it run down to cover the curtain. Allow it to sit for a few minutes, then rinse it off.

Shower Curtain Cleaning Tips

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Buying or Building Your Own Water Fountain

Things to Consider

A great deal about fountains has changed over the last decade. Now there are really high class ones made of copper, bronze, concrete, and stone, and some fairly nice ones made of resin and fiberglass. There are several things to consider, though. As a pump wholesaler, I speak with fountain owners all the time and also look at lots of samples of fountains at trade shows and in magazines. Before purchasing a fountain, there are quite a few questions to ask. What looks good in a store might not look good at your home or business. Or it might look good for the first month or year but then you'll get tired of it. Fountains are usually around for a long time; in fact, concrete and stone ones last centuries and are hard to remove once they're installed. Here are things to consider.

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Bronze Fountains

These are at the high end of fountains, and can retail for ten to twenty thousand dollars. They are plain classy. But will one of these fit in where you want to put it? Do you have the right yard or business or location for such a classic kind of display? Also, do you like the aging process (the verdigris patina) that bronze undergoes. Can you afford one of these? If you answered yes to these questions, a bronze fountain might be right for you. It will last your lifetime, your kids' lifetimes, their kids' lifetimes, etc. And they are durable enough to be moved from house to house.

Copper Fountains

Like bronze fountains, these too tend to be classy, especially the name brand ones like Water Wonders, which mix copper with glass and slate. These make especially nice wall fountains. We have been selling Water Wonders fountains for several years at Fountain Mountain. There are certain things to think about, though. Are you locating the fountain in a room with good acoustics? Some rooms make the pump noise really echo, especially small rooms with walls that are close together. Do you know someone or can you hire an electrician to hide the cord in the wall? These fountains are a bit too expensive to buy if you're going to let the cord run outside the wall for everyone to see. Finally, it is a good idea to go listen to them run at a store before purchasing. Some of them make little water noise and some make a lot. To increase water sound you might have to turn up the pump to the point of there being slight splash. But if you are careful and go to a store with Water Wonders or other copper fountains on display before purchasing, and are happy with what you see and hear, these are great fountains.

Concrete Fountains

These still provide the most bang for the buck, primarily because concrete is so inexpensive. In fact, a huge part of the cost of concrete fountains is in transporting them to stores for sale and in the labor of painting them. The concrete itself is the least expensive part of the fountains' manufacture. There are some differences in how they are made, though. Some companies, like Brandelli's, use a "light" mix: their fountains are not nearly as heavy as those produced by, say, Avila's. Also, some companies like Brandelli's, use a stain over concrete, whereas others, like Avila's or Lomelli's, use paints (usually more than one at a time) or stains. Also, most concrete companies (though not all) reinforce their fountains with steel. This makes them strong but also means the concrete must be sealed. If not painted (as most fountains from Mexico are not), then they do need to have a clear sealant put on them. Otherwise the water will seep through to the steel, which will rust. Eventually, the fountain is likely to crack. One final word of advice on concrete, beware of "cute." Cute fountains (mama dogs with baby dogs, boys peeing) sometimes don't look so cute over time. Ask yourself if you'll still think the fountain is cute years later. Remember, concrete fountains can last hundreds of years. And they are difficult to move so pick something that will stay put. The traditional Italian 3-tier fountain is always a safe bet.

Resin and Fiberglass Fountains

The quality of these has gotten a lot better, and they have the clear advantage of being more easily handled than concrete ones. Some do look like concrete and stone, though they tend to look much more realistic at first glance than they do after a week has passed. Then it is pretty clear that they are faux. These are also a lot easier on employees who work in tores, as they don't have to worry as much about their backs. We would sell these at our store but just don't like their looks as well as the real thing.

Stone Fountains

These look incredibly good or mediocre. The handcrafted stone fountains out of Mexico and many of the large ones out of China are beautiful. But there are also mass-produced stone fountains, which use crushed stone mixed with resin. These just don't look like real stone to us even though they are.

Making Your Own Water Fountain

There are lots of ways to make your own fountains. The easiest way, perhaps, is to place a pump in a small tub or on some liner. Then place a wire or plastic grate on top of the tub or the liner, and layer pebbles, rocks, etc. over the wire or plastic grate. Your pump and plumbing will be hidden! No one will no where your water is coming from. You can then connect black PVC piping to the pump (black sprinkler pipe is incredibly inexpensive yet professional looking) and let the water rise up seemingly out of rocks in your yard. You won't have to worry much about pets as the water source is covered with stones. Likewise, you won't have to worry about kids drowning. You can also build a little waterfall over such a pit if you want, just throwing in boulders to hide your electric and tubing, etc. Some people use bamboo for spouts. You can also drill holes through slate (we've found it's really easy if you soak the slate for a day first). Slate is so porous, however, you ought to seal it once you're done drilling. You can also find rocks in nature that already have holes in them.

How Big of a Pump do I need?

Basically, if you buy a fountain at a store you should have instructions on the best size pump for that particular piece of garden art. If you are making your own fountain, here is a rule of thumb: for every inch of width you need to pump 100 gallons per hour. But note that a100 gallon per hour pump is not pumping the same volume at one foot head (elevation above the pump), two feet head, three feet, and so forth. If you are making your own fountain, it is likely you will have to guess which size to buy, and you might be wrong the first time you build one. Most pumps are adjustable but often can be adjusted down only a bit. However, magnetic-driven pumps, the most common kind, are inexpensive and durable. You can find them online at many wholesale pumps outlets.

Buying or Building Your Own Water Fountain

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How to Use Senna For Constipation Relief

It is known that Egyptians used senna tea to relieve constipation. This tea is used for medium and chronic conditions of constipation. It is the chemicals anthraquinones that provide its strong action on your colon walls. Senna is the second best herb to use for chronic constipation because it creates strong peristalic action. It is readily available in health food stores or on the Internet.

Only use senna for a short time, 1- 1½ week. It is not healthy to use it for a long time, since its action moves fecal matter through your colon quickly. This quick action prevents absorption of nutrients by your colon depriving you of necessary minerals and vitamins.

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Use senna only in amounts that produce the required bowel movement and stool softness to relieve your constipation. Start with small amounts and increase your amount slowly.

Senna is sold Over-the-Counter under the name Correctol®, ExLax®, Senokot®, and Smooth Move. Senokot also contain docusate sodium - a stool softener - an added benefit when hard, dry stools may cause discomfort.

Senna Tea with Potato peels

You can also prepare senna tea as follows:

Buy some senna tea at a health food. Place a tea bag into 1 ½ cups of distilled water and steep. Then, add the peel of a whole red potato. Also, add a couple slices of potato meat. Add to this, a teaspoon of wheat or oat bran and flax seed.

Simmer this combination, strain it and drink the liquid. This will give constipation relief for some of the more difficult cases of constipation. Remember the longer you simmer this combination the stronger the tea will be. Start with a 5-10 minutes and then work up to 15-20 minutes but you need to experiment with the time.

When you drink senna tea, drink only 2-3 oz. at a time and drink it only after it has cooled down. It has less of a cramping action when you drink it cool.

Senna Tea with Peppermint

Here is another senna tea you can prepare.

1 teaspoon of senna tea leaves
½ teaspoon of peppermint leaves.

Boil 8 oz of distilled water, turn the heat off, stir in the herbs. Turn the heat off and cover the glass container. Let tea simmer for 3-10 minutes.

Add honey to improve taste and some powered vitamin C if you have it.

Look for formulas that have a small amount, 1/10 of a part, of fennel, anise, or ginger to reduce any cramping that might occur with senna.

Do not drink seena tea or capsule if you have any type of colon disease, stomach pain, diarrhea, or are pregnant.

Senna Pod Tea with Prunes.

Senna Pods are milder than the leaves since the do not contain the resin. It is the resin in the senna leaves that causes griping in your colon.

If available, use around 8 pods. Heat some distilled water. Place the pods into the water for 5-10 minutes. Strain the tea and add 3-4 dried prunes or chopped prunes. Let cool and eat the prunes during the day or drink and eat a few prunes just before you go to bed. Drink only a couple ounces of the senna liquid at one time. If cramping or griping occurs, reduce the amount of tea you drink.

There you have it. You can get constipation relief with senna herb by using it in different ways.

How to Use Senna For Constipation Relief

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Bathtub Faucet Repair Tips and Techniques

Did you know that you can fix a leaking shower faucet and save hundreds of gallons of water a year? Most people just think of a dripping faucet as an annoyance and don't realize how much precious water is being wasted one drop at a time. The good news is that almost anyone with a few basic hand tools can learn how to fix most dripping faucets.

Let's start with the basics. Faucets have one primary purpose, to allow the water in your pipes to be used in a controlled manner. This means that they have to open to allow water out of the pipes and close to keep water in the pipes. Not rocket science, right? The closing part is what we want to concentrate on here.

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There Are Two Basic Faucet Designs

Faucets drip when they fail to completely trap the water in the pipes. Most faucets use one of two basic methods to stop the water flow. Some, primarily older designs, use rubber or neoprene washers which tighten against a "seat" and block the flow of water. Drips from these faucets are addressed by replacing the washers and/or seats. We'll talk about how to do that in a minute. Most other faucet designs involve some sort of cartridge. Some people call these "washerless" faucets. Repairing newer style water faucets like these usually involves replacing the cartridge(s).

Washers And Seats

Older faucet designs often use washers to block the water and keep it in the pipes. Tightening the handle compresses the washer against a "seat" and seals the opening, thus stopping the water flow. If you need to do a bathtub faucet repair on a three handle wall faucet you probably have this type. You will also run into this style if you need to fix a leaking shower faucet hat has two handles. Many sink and lavatory faucets also use washers. One way to tell whether or not your faucets use washers is to see if the handle gets harder to turn as you turn it off. If turning it really tight stops the drip, this probably, but not always, means that you have washers. If you do have a dripping faucet that has washers, the basic repair process is very similar whether you need to know how to repair a shower faucet,repair a leaking tub faucet or fix a dripping sink faucet. There is, however, one important difference.

Bathtub Faucet Repair

The one critical thing to remember when fixing a leaky bathtub faucet is that you will have to turn the water off to the entire house before removing any parts other than the outer trim pieces. If you're not sure which pieces are trim, just turn the water off first just in case. Once you have turned off the main water to the house you can begin taking things apart. There are lots of different brands and designs of faucets out there and they all come apart a little differently, so you will have to sort of feel your way through.

Removing The Trim

The first step is to remove the handles. This is usually done by removing a cap to expose the handle screw and then removing the screw. Next, remove the handle. This may require a little finesse, as the handles sometimes get stuck in place. One trick is to place the handles of a pair of channel lock pliers behind the valve handle, one on each side, and tap evenly on the handle to nudge it loose. If this doesn't work you can buy a special tool to remove handles but these tools are sometimes hard to find and usually a little patience is all you need to do the trick.

After he handles are off, there is usually some sort of sleeve over the stem itself. This typically has to come off too. Once again, there are many different configurations. One popular design uses threaded plastic tubes to connect the trim sleeve with the valve. Other types have the sleeve threaded directly onto the valve. You will have to figure this step out before you can proceed. If you can determine what brand valve you have there is a good chance of finding instructions on-line.

Now For The Root Of The Problem

OK, so you have removed both the handles and any remaining trim sleeve from the valve. Now you are ready to get to the root of the problem, your valve stem. The washer is almost always at the other end of the valve stem from the handle. Usually the stem is threaded into the valve body and you will just need to unscrew it to remove it. Here's a tip. Stick the handle back on for a second and open the valve half way. This relieves pressure on the stem and makes it easier to unscrew. Now you just need to make sure you are loosening the correct nut.

Lots of valves have a packing nut around the stem. It is usually a little smaller and just in front of the actual connection with the valve body. The packing nut's purpose is to squeeze some special packing material around the stem to prevent water from leaking around the stem when the valve is in use. Loosening the packing nut won't help you, you need to get your wrench on the actual connection to the valve body. By the way, a deep socket is often the only tool that will work to remove the valve stem.

Removing The Valve Stem

The easiest way to make sure you have the correct nut is to see if there is a gap opening up between the nut and the valve body as you loosen the nut. The valve stem itself will also usually turn when you have the right one. If you have loosened the packing nut by mistake, don't worry, you will adjust it before you are finished anyway. Go ahead and remove both stems and keep up with which one is which, it matters on many valves.

After you have the stems out you should be able to find the washer on the "inside" end. If it is nicked, torn or brittle it is likely the cause of your drip. Even if it looks brand new, go ahead and replace it. You've already come this far. You can get replacement washers at almost any hardware store. Sometimes you may want to replace the whole stem, especially if the handle end is stripped out. It's best to just take the stem with you to the store and see if you can match it up. Most Do It Yourself stores have replacement stems for many popular brands. If your valve has a center diverter valve to switch the waterfrom the tub spout to the shower head the same process applies. Many times it is easier to replace the diverter stem than to repair it. This really depends on the design of the stem.

How Are Your Seats?

One more thing to check is the seats. These are the part of the valve body that the washer tightens up against to stop the water flow. If you can get your finger inside the valve, feel of the seats and see if they feel rough. If so, it would be best to replace them if you can get them out. The inside of the seats, which is where the water flows through when the valve is open, usually have either a hex or square recess. Special seat wrenches are used to remove the seats. You can usually get these wrenches at the same place you get the other parts and they're not expensive. You just stick the wrench through the seat and unscrew it. The replacement seats screw back in the same way, just put a little pipe dope on the threads before you install it.

Put It All Back Together

Once you've figured out what needs to be replaced and have done that, you just need to put everything back together. If your valve has packing nuts don't put the trim back on until you have turned the water back on. Once the water is on, go ahead and stick the handle on for a second and open the valve. Make sure no water is leaking around the stem. If it is leaking, with the handle opened half way, snug down the packing nut until the leak stops. Easy does it. If you get it too tight the handle will be hard to turn. Now finish installing the trim pieces and you are done.

Repairing Newer Style Water Faucets

If you have a newer, "washerless" type valve the repair process is similar, but usually easier. Many of these type valves use a self contained cartridge. If the valve starts to drip, just replace the cartridge and you're done. You still need to turn the water off and remove the handles and trim. The cartridge is usually held in place by a retaining nut on the valve body or, in the case of most Moen valves, by a retaining clip. Simply remove the cartridge and put another one in it's place. If your hot and cold are backwards when you finish, turn the water back off, pull the cartridge back out, turn it over 180 degrees and re-install it.

Delta Style Valves

One other common design that is considered "washerless" was made famous by Delta and copied by several other makers. It uses little "cup" seals that fit over springs recessed in the back of the valve body. The springs press these "seals" against the cartridge and regulate the flow through little tapered openings in the cartridge. If you have one of these and it's dripping, changing these springs and seals will usually correct it. Here's a tip. Once you have the cartridge out of the way, insert a phillips screwdriver into the seal and pop both the seal and spring out. Stick the new ones on the end of the screwdriver to help guide them into place. This is especially helpful if you don't have long slender fingers.

Delta, and a few imitators, also have a faucet design that uses a ball instead of a cartridge. This is not as common in tub or shower valves but there are plenty of them out there. The springs and seals are the same but there are lots more o-rings an parts to deal with. The good news is that these parts are readily available. While it's a little more complicated than learning how to repair a Moen kitchen faucet, which is a piece of cake, it is still easier than working with most washer type faucets.

These Techniques Work In The Kitchen Too

Armed with the knowledge you've gained in this article you now not only know how to repair a shower faucet and to repair a leaking tub faucet, but you can apply these skills to many other faucets as well. After fixing a leaky bathtub faucet, stopping a dripping outside hose faucet will be a breeze. The techniques that you will use to complete a "washerless" bathtub faucet repair can be used when repairing newer style water faucets of all kinds. Whether you have an old dripping tub faucet or a newer kitchen faucet that just won't quite shut off you can now fix it. So put these new skills to use, roll up your sleeves and stop that drip!

Copyright 2008 Bryan Stevens

Bathtub Faucet Repair Tips and Techniques

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Signs That You Need a New Water Heater For Your Home

Many individuals are curious as to when do you need a new water heater. There are actually many indications that a hot water heater needs to be replaced. One of the most common signs, or actually the most common sign, is that the water does not heat as rapidly as it once did, or it fails to heat the water at all.

However, if you notice that it is getting colder outside when this occurs, it may be a matter of simply having to turn up the heat setting on the tank. In many cases, cooler weather may result in the heater having to work harder to maintain the same temperature that it did in the warmer months. If you find that the adjustment fails to work, you may be in need of a new system.

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The next indication that you can use to determine you need a new water heater is that there is an actual leak on the tank itself. If you find that there is a small drip, you may be able to repair the leak. However, there are some cases in which there will be a seam leak that is caused by damage, rust, or weatherization, and these are really difficult to repair. If a seam leak is responsible for that water coming out of the system, it is definitely time to make some repairs.

If you find that you simply have to patch the unit, be sure to keep a watch on the tank over time in case the patch comes off. In some cases, the area of the leak may be able to be welded. I suggest that if you try this step, you have it professionally done so that there is no chance of further damage.

The next thing that you should consider if you are asking the question of when do you need a new water heater is the age of the system that you have in your home. These units are designed to last an average of one to one and a half decades.

If your unit is older than this, age may be starting to take its toll. It may be time to purchase a new heater, if nothing else, for the sake of efficiency. If you are looking at age as a determining factor of when to buy a new hot water heater, you may also want to examine the pipes that come from the unit.

Signs That You Need a New Water Heater For Your Home

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